How to make a Top Stitch

This is a decorative stitch with as many rows of top stitching as you desire.  Try experimenting with different types of threads e.g. satin thread and contrasting colours.

For best result and easier manipulation, try to apply the topstitching when the garment is flat, e.g. if the shoulder seam is to be top stitched, do this before joining the side seams and attaching the sleeves.

A quilting foot or seam guide may be used to adjust the width of the topstitching.  Take care to mirror image the seam allowance to ensure that the stitching is balanced. e.g. both shoulder seams are pressed to the back; side front panel seams are stitched towards the side seam.

1. Test a small sample to check the desired effect and if seam pucker (tiny gathers) appears.  If puckers appear, stretch the seam whilst top stitching. Always stitch on the right side of the garment and above the seam allowances.  All  rows of top stitching must be done on the same thickness/layers of fabric for a uniformed appearance. 
2. Make a closed seam with a minimum of 1cm seam allowance for single or double top stitching. (use wider seam allowance for multiple top stitching).  Overlock the raw edges together and press.
3. Single top stitch: Using the foot as a guide, stitch through all layers of the seam allowances parallel to the seam.
4. Multiple top stitching: a) Stitching through all the layers of the seam allowance, place the first row approx 1mm away from the seam (edge stitch) or if preferred stitch with the width of the foot away from the seam. b) Use the foot as a guide to sew a parallel row to the first row and stitch through all layers of the seam allowances. c) Repeat for subsequent rows
5. Press flat but take care not to “overpress” i.e. don’t press too hard.
6. Top press and underpress for a professional finish and only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional fiish

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick>
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a Diamond Shaped Dart

This is also known as the body dart as sit runs from the bust, through the waist and down to the hip.

1. Begin as close to the edge of the fabric as possible, do not back stitch to avoid a ridged edge.
2. Stitch to a smooth curve through the waist point (the widest point of the dart).
3. At the end of the dart, run off the stitching to the edge of the garment.
4. Tie off ends in a knot for a smoother finish.
5. Cut away excess of the dart leaving a 1cm seam allowance. (Do not overlock or zig-zag – that would risk ugly impressions permanently on the right side after pressing.)
6. On the wrong side, press the dart flat to set the stitches, then press the seam open, if necessary clip the dart at the centre up to the stitch line to allow the seam to press flat. Do not make too many clips as this will weaken the seam. (You may stretch this area instead if the fabric will allow it – wool and natural fibres will be very accommadating.)
7. Press the uncut part of the dart flat by using the blade of a tiny scissor to open the seam, now press on the scissors. Take care not to burn yourself.
8. On the right side press the seam only with the toe of the iron and avoid overpressing the entire area around the dart. Use the toe of the iron to press the tip of the dart to avoid pleating
9. Do not overpress and cause an impression on the right side of the garment or ‘scorch’ or ‘kill’ the fibres.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional fiish

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick>
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion