Inserting a conventional zip with a concealed method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment.  A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is enclosed right over left.  The top of the zip teeth should rest approximately 2mm below the seam allowance to allow for waistbands, facings etc.
  1. Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from below the zipper opening and backstitch. 
  2. Overlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam.  Lightly press the right side from the seam opening to the top of the garment the width of the required seam allowance.
  3. First, attach the left (underside) of the zip.  Create a 2/3mm pleat/inlay away from the seam along the edge of the opening.  Place the left side of the zip face down (right side to right side) unto the left side of the opening.  Align the 3mm stitch/guide line beneath the zipper teeth.  Use the appropriate zipper feet and stitch in place the full length of the zip.
  4. The pleat will now extend the zip 2/3mm beyond the fitting line allowing the zip insertion to become concealed. The stitch line will not be visible from the right side of the garment.  Lightly press with the toe of the iron if necessary.
  5. Align the right side of the opening over the right side of the zip so that it forms a continuous, straight seam. From the wrong side of the garment, pull the 3mm pleat across the seam and tack or pin before stitching in place with the appropriate zipper foot.

Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion