How to make a Run & Fell Seam

This is a strong functional and decorative seam. It is used for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and seam allowances may vary. Use coloured thread for a decorative finish. Reverse the method of construction to place the smoother side next to the body.

PRESS ALL STAGES FOR A SMOOTH, PROFESSIONAL FINISH

1. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, place right sides of fabrics together and stitch.
2. Press seam flat on the wrong side, then press open on the wrong side, then open on right side. Now press both layers of seam allowance to the desired side. Trim away 1cm from the under layer of seam allowance.
3. Fold a 5mm from the topside seam allowance and press.
4. Top stitch the folded edge in place. All raw edges will now be concealed.
5. Extra layers of topstitching may be added for a more decorative finish.
6. Top press to finish.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a French Seam

A French seam is both a functional and a decorative seam. It is used for delicate and sheer fabrics. The total amount of the seam allowance is divided for a narrow and a wider seam. Example the first seam of 6mm is folded over, then stitch another seam of 9mm = total seam of 1.5cm. Seam Allowances may vary.

PRESSING AT EACH STAGE WILL GIVE YOU A PROFESSIONAL FINISH

1. Place the wrong sides of the fabrics together. Stitch 6mm seam allowance.
2. Press the seam flat to set the stitches and smooth the seam. Press the seam open. Fold the seam over (right side of fabric together) and press together so that the stitch line is on the fold of the seam.
3. Re-open the pressed seam and trim approx 2mm from the raw edge. This will leave a smooth unfrayed edge.
4. Fold fabrics with right sides together. Stitch 9mm seam allowance.
5. From the wrong side, press flat to set the stitches and press away any seam pucker, then press seam allowance towards one side.
6. Top stitching may be added for a more decorative finish.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a Welt Seam

This is a fairly strong functional seam and the top stitching (single or multiple rows) will add a decorative finish. Try experimenting with different types of threads for top stitching, e.g. satin thread.  This seam is suitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics and seam allowances may vary.

PRESS ALL STAGES FOR A SMOOTH, PROFESSIONAL FINISH

1. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, place right sides of fabrics together and stitch.
2. Press seam flat on the wrong side to set the stitches and smooth out any seam pucker;  then press open; now press both layers of seam allowance to the desired side as for a closed seam. Trim away approx 7mm from the under layer of seam allowance and overlock or zig-zag the top layer of the seam allowance.
3. Press the overlocked edge flat.
4. From the Right side of the garment. top stitch to enclose the shorter seam allowance. The raw edge will now be concealed.
5. Extra layers of topstitching may be added for a more decorative finish.
6. Top press and underpress for a professional finish.

Only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion