Claudette Davis-Bonnick | Pattern Cutter, Garment Construction and Lecturer: Zips

Inserting an Open-Ended Zip

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for this zip insertion. The left and right conventional zipper feet are used.

The garment opening is edge to edge.

If appropriate, zig-zag or overlock the edge of the seam allowance before zip application.
Fold back and lightly press the seam allowance on both sides of the opening. Turn up and lightly press the hem allowance, (in this instance 1cm.)
Using the creases as a guide lines, fold back the hem so that right sides are together, stitch approx. 2mm above the guide/crease hem line
Fold up the hem allowance and turn it through so that wrong side are back together.
Separate the zip, place the right side of the zip to the inside of the garment and align the bottom of the zip to a few millimetres from the bottom of the garment. (Any excess in the length of the zip can be cut away later and hidden behind facings or linings etc.) The teeth of the zipper is placed approx. 2mm away from the edge of the garment. Stitch close enough to the teeth to allow the glided to move freely.
Align the opposite side of the zip to the garment. Close the zip to check correct alignment. Change to the opposite zipper foot, re-open the zip and stitch zipper in place. Use the same sequence and distances to maintain an even and symmetrical finish to the front of the garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Concealed (invisible) Zip Insertion

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment and use the correct zipper foot. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is inserted into the seam. The zip should be approximately 2cm longer that the opening allowance to allow for a clean turn through at the bottom.

Stitch the 2cm seam below the zip opening. Press open and continue to lightly press a 2cm seam allowance on the zip opening. This will be used as a guide line when inserting the zip. Overlock or zig-zag the edges.
Open the zip and align the tape of the zip to the top of the opening with the roll of the zip (next to the teeth) resting on the guide line, edge of zip is in the same direction as the edge of the garment. The side of the zip being inserted is right side face down! (right side to right side). This will cause the fabric to roll into a seam when the zip is folded back into the correct position after stitching.
Slip the curl of the zipper teeth in the groove of the appropriate side of the zipper foot. (this will depend upon the style of zipper foot being used) The stitching must be close enough to the teeth to allow the zipper to close. Too far away and it will cause ‘grinning’ when the zipper is closed.
Stitch to the bottom of the opening as fas as possible and back stitch. Close the zip to test that you have stitched the correct distance from the teeth.
Align the opposite side of the zip to the opening with the roll resting on the guideline. Re-open the zip. Stitch to the bottom as far as is comfortably possible.
Lift the puller into the gap between the zip teeth (your extra 2cm length). Carefully pull up the puller through the gap between the garment and the zipper.
If the zip is inserted correctly, there will be one continuous seam with no puckers at the bottom of the zip. A very sight pucker can be disguised with a hand stitch on the wrong side of the garment.
For long openings use a chalk or thread notches to keep the left and right side aligned. For stretch fabrics and bias cuts garments use a narrow strip of iron-on interlining on the garment to reach say 3mm beyond the seam line. This will stabalise the seam.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Inserting a conventional zip with a concealed method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is enclosed right over left. The top of the zip teeth should rest approximately 2mm below the seam allowance to allow for waistbands, facings etc.

Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from below the zipper opening and backstitch.
Overlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam. Lightly press the right side from the seam opening to the top of the garment the width of the required seam allowance.
First, attach the left (underside) of the zip. Create a 2/3mm pleat/inlay away from the seam along the edge of the opening. Place the left side of the zip face down (right side to right side) unto the left side of the opening. Align the 3mm stitch/guide line beneath the zipper teeth. Use the appropriate zipper feet and stitch in place the full length of the zip.
The pleat will now extend the zip 2/3mm beyond the fitting line allowing the zip insertion to become concealed. The stitch line will not be visible from the right side of the garment. Lightly press with the toe of the iron if necessary.
Align the right side of the opening over the right side of the zip so that it forms a continuous, straight seam. From the wrong side of the garment, pull the 3mm pleat across the seam and tack or pin before stitching in place with the appropriate zipper foot.

Inserting a conventional zip using the channel method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

Make the seam allowance below the zipper, overlock or zig-zag the edge of the seam allowances, press the seam allowance open and press or tack the zipper fitting line before you begin the zip insertion.

Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from end of the seam to below the zipper opening and backstitch. (Optional, you may change the stitch length to the longest length, [baste] stitch to the top of the seam, snip the threads above the backstitch for ease of removal later.)
Operlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam. (Remove the optional [basting] stitches.
Place right side of zip to wrong side of garment. Align the top of the zip to the top of the opening and so that the teeth is just inside the edge of the opening, (approx 2 to 3mm).
Use the foot where the needle is closest to the zip. Also, use the foot as a guide to stitch from the edge of the zip to stitch a straight line. Close to the bottom of the zip, leave the needle in the garment, lift the foot and pull the tab & slider past the foot. Continue to stitch to the bottom of the zip.
At the bottom of the zip length, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and pivot the garment at right angle. Stitch to the seam line -- counting the number of stitches. Count the same number of stitches across the seam line, pivot and stitch to the top of the zipper aligning the zip as the previous side.
Top press and under-press for a professional finish.

Only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Description of Zipper Feet

Using the correct zipper foot will give you the best result for the application. The feet illustrated are for industrial sewing machines but the same can be found for domestic sewing machines. For the domestic sewing machines, the left and right feet are moulded together on one foot.

Description of Zips

It is important to choose the correct weight of zip to compliment the fabric and the garment. If the weight is too heavy, it will cause the garment to 'bulge' in places.