Inserting an Open-Ended Zip

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for this zip insertion. The left and right conventional zipper feet are used.

The garment opening is edge to edge.
  1. If appropriate, zig-zag or overlock the edge of the seam allowance before zip application. 
  2. Fold back and lightly press the seam allowance on both sides of the opening. Turn up and lightly press the hem allowance, (in this instance 1cm.)  
  3. Using the creases as a guide lines, fold back the hem so that right sides are together, stitch approx. 2mm above the guide/crease hem line 
  4. Fold up the hem allowance and turn it through so that wrong side are back together.
  5. Separate the zip, place the right side of the zip to the inside of the garment and align the bottom of the zip to a few millimetres from the bottom of the garment. (Any excess in the length of the zip can be cut away later and hidden behind facings or linings etc.) The teeth of the zipper is placed approx. 2mm away from the edge of the garment. Stitch close enough to the teeth to allow the glided to move freely. 
  6. Align the opposite side of the zip to the garment. Close the zip to check correct alignment. Change to the opposite zipper foot, re-open the zip and stitch zipper in place. Use the same sequence and distances to maintain an even and symmetrical finish to the front of the garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

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