How to make a Diamond Shaped Dart

This is also known as the body dart as sit runs from the bust, through the waist and down to the hip.

1. Begin as close to the edge of the fabric as possible, do not back stitch to avoid a ridged edge.
2. Stitch to a smooth curve through the waist point (the widest point of the dart).
3. At the end of the dart, run off the stitching to the edge of the garment.
4. Tie off ends in a knot for a smoother finish.
5. Cut away excess of the dart leaving a 1cm seam allowance. (Do not overlock or zig-zag – that would risk ugly impressions permanently on the right side after pressing.)
6. On the wrong side, press the dart flat to set the stitches, then press the seam open, if necessary clip the dart at the centre up to the stitch line to allow the seam to press flat. Do not make too many clips as this will weaken the seam. (You may stretch this area instead if the fabric will allow it – wool and natural fibres will be very accommadating.)
7. Press the uncut part of the dart flat by using the blade of a tiny scissor to open the seam, now press on the scissors. Take care not to burn yourself.
8. On the right side press the seam only with the toe of the iron and avoid overpressing the entire area around the dart. Use the toe of the iron to press the tip of the dart to avoid pleating
9. Do not overpress and cause an impression on the right side of the garment or ‘scorch’ or ‘kill’ the fibres.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional fiish

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick>
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion