Claudette Davis-Bonnick | Pattern Cutter, Garment Construction and Lecturer: 2012

Concealed (invisible) Zip Insertion

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment and use the correct zipper foot. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is inserted into the seam. The zip should be approximately 2cm longer that the opening allowance to allow for a clean turn through at the bottom.

Stitch the 2cm seam below the zip opening. Press open and continue to lightly press a 2cm seam allowance on the zip opening. This will be used as a guide line when inserting the zip. Overlock or zig-zag the edges.
Open the zip and align the tape of the zip to the top of the opening with the roll of the zip (next to the teeth) resting on the guide line, edge of zip is in the same direction as the edge of the garment. The side of the zip being inserted is right side face down! (right side to right side). This will cause the fabric to roll into a seam when the zip is folded back into the correct position after stitching.
Slip the curl of the zipper teeth in the groove of the appropriate side of the zipper foot. (this will depend upon the style of zipper foot being used) The stitching must be close enough to the teeth to allow the zipper to close. Too far away and it will cause ‘grinning’ when the zipper is closed.
Stitch to the bottom of the opening as fas as possible and back stitch. Close the zip to test that you have stitched the correct distance from the teeth.
Align the opposite side of the zip to the opening with the roll resting on the guideline. Re-open the zip. Stitch to the bottom as far as is comfortably possible.
Lift the puller into the gap between the zip teeth (your extra 2cm length). Carefully pull up the puller through the gap between the garment and the zipper.
If the zip is inserted correctly, there will be one continuous seam with no puckers at the bottom of the zip. A very sight pucker can be disguised with a hand stitch on the wrong side of the garment.
For long openings use a chalk or thread notches to keep the left and right side aligned. For stretch fabrics and bias cuts garments use a narrow strip of iron-on interlining on the garment to reach say 3mm beyond the seam line. This will stabalise the seam.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Crafting a Wedding Dress

September 2012

Each summer I make a wedding dress, the average time allowed is two weeks. I enjoy the challenge immensely but was really pushed for time this year as my schedule finally left me with one week to D Day or Wedding Day.

The pressure was truly on Chinaa had her first fitting of the toile 5 days before the wedding. The bodice canvas boned with spiral boning is temporarily grown to the skirt. The fit is perfected along with the neckline and placement of the back bodice insert and seam-lines. The length of the dress, the front skirt sweep, the movement, the spread and length of the train and overall silhouette and balance of the gown was checked before cutting in the silk.

The dress is separated at the lower skirt line and the canvas was lined before nearly 2 days of hand-working the overlapping pleats, back and front before inserting the centre back panel. The skirt with its side front sweep and back train was bagged out before growing it to the bodice, (at last some stitching on the sewing machine). Crin was used to support the back hemline. Second fitting completed and the back and front features positioned correctly and the upper bodice finally lined.

A net petticoat was constructed to maintain the silhouette (Thanks Judes) and 12hrs before the deadline I was able to add the finishing touches, beading and top press. I think in future I will stick to the two weeks lead time.

Well Chinaa and 'Mum' were both thrilled with the result and the groom was overwhelmed with this beautiful bride.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Photography: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Music & Editing: Tim Harris

Inserting a conventional zip with a concealed method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is enclosed right over left. The top of the zip teeth should rest approximately 2mm below the seam allowance to allow for waistbands, facings etc.

Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from below the zipper opening and backstitch.
Overlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam. Lightly press the right side from the seam opening to the top of the garment the width of the required seam allowance.
First, attach the left (underside) of the zip. Create a 2/3mm pleat/inlay away from the seam along the edge of the opening. Place the left side of the zip face down (right side to right side) unto the left side of the opening. Align the 3mm stitch/guide line beneath the zipper teeth. Use the appropriate zipper feet and stitch in place the full length of the zip.
The pleat will now extend the zip 2/3mm beyond the fitting line allowing the zip insertion to become concealed. The stitch line will not be visible from the right side of the garment. Lightly press with the toe of the iron if necessary.
Align the right side of the opening over the right side of the zip so that it forms a continuous, straight seam. From the wrong side of the garment, pull the 3mm pleat across the seam and tack or pin before stitching in place with the appropriate zipper foot.

Inserting a conventional zip using the channel method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

Make the seam allowance below the zipper, overlock or zig-zag the edge of the seam allowances, press the seam allowance open and press or tack the zipper fitting line before you begin the zip insertion.

Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from end of the seam to below the zipper opening and backstitch. (Optional, you may change the stitch length to the longest length, [baste] stitch to the top of the seam, snip the threads above the backstitch for ease of removal later.)
Operlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam. (Remove the optional [basting] stitches.
Place right side of zip to wrong side of garment. Align the top of the zip to the top of the opening and so that the teeth is just inside the edge of the opening, (approx 2 to 3mm).
Use the foot where the needle is closest to the zip. Also, use the foot as a guide to stitch from the edge of the zip to stitch a straight line. Close to the bottom of the zip, leave the needle in the garment, lift the foot and pull the tab & slider past the foot. Continue to stitch to the bottom of the zip.
At the bottom of the zip length, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and pivot the garment at right angle. Stitch to the seam line -- counting the number of stitches. Count the same number of stitches across the seam line, pivot and stitch to the top of the zipper aligning the zip as the previous side.
Top press and under-press for a professional finish.

Only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Description of Zipper Feet

Using the correct zipper foot will give you the best result for the application. The feet illustrated are for industrial sewing machines but the same can be found for domestic sewing machines. For the domestic sewing machines, the left and right feet are moulded together on one foot.

Description of Zips

It is important to choose the correct weight of zip to compliment the fabric and the garment. If the weight is too heavy, it will cause the garment to 'bulge' in places.

How to make a Narrow Hem

This narrow hem is suitable for most fabric types, weight and garment finishes. It is also useful on bias and full circle garments. The same method can be applied to produce a wide hem. However, the wide hem is not suitable for circle or shaped hemlines.

Turn up a narrow fold (approximately 3mm) to the wrong side of the fabric/garment.
Turn up a second fold of 4mm (or wider if desired) to the wrong side of the fabric/garment. Edge stitch to secure the fold. Hem is now completed.
Take care to be consistent with the stitching distance from the edge of the hem to create a uniformed and aesthetic appearance on the right side of the fabric/garment.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional finish

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a Pin Hem

This hem is the width of a pin, it is fine and delicate. A pin hem is suitable for delicate fabrics and light to medium weight fabrics. It is useful for silk, satin, chiffon scarves, short flowing sleeves and hemlines. It is also useful on bias and full circle garments. The hem will not dominate the overall aesthetics of the garment but recedes into the background.

Turn up a narrow fold (approximately 6mm, or more if appropriate) to the wrong side of the garment/accessory. Stitch on the edge of the fold without falling off the edge.
Press flat then trim the excess seam allowance up to the stitchline without cutting the stitches or through to the front of the garment/accessory. For the best result, hold the scissor at approx. a 30° angle.
Turn up a second fold to the wrong side of the garment. Push the trimmed edge firmly against the fold. Stitch next to the previous stitchline.
Two rows of stitching will appear on the wrong side of the garment and one row of stitching will appear on the right side. Press on the wrong side. Hem is now completed.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional finish

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick>
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a Top Stitch

This is a decorative stitch with as many rows of top stitching as you desire. Try experimenting with different types of threads e.g. satin thread and contrasting colours.

For best result and easier manipulation, try to apply the topstitching when the garment is flat, e.g. if the shoulder seam is to be top stitched, do this before joining the side seams and attaching the sleeves.

A quilting foot or seam guide may be used to adjust the width of the topstitching. Take care to mirror image the seam allowance to ensure that the stitching is balanced. e.g. both shoulder seams are pressed to the back; side front panel seams are stitched towards the side seam.

Test a small sample to check the desired effect and if seam pucker (tiny gathers) appears. If puckers appear, stretch the seam whilst top stitching. Always stitch on the right side of the garment and above the seam allowances. All rows of top stitching must be done on the same thickness/layers of fabric for a uniformed appearance.
Make a closed seam with a minimum of 1cm seam allowance for single or double top stitching. (use wider seam allowance for multiple top stitching). Overlock the raw edges together and press.
Single top stitch: Using the foot as a guide, stitch through all layers of the seam allowances parallel to the seam.
Multiple top stitching: a) Stitching through all the layers of the seam allowance, place the first row approx 1mm away from the seam (edge stitch) or if preferred stitch with the width of the foot away from the seam. b) Use the foot as a guide to sew a parallel row to the first row and stitch through all layers of the seam allowances. c) Repeat for subsequent rows
Press flat but take care not to “overpress” i.e. don’t press too hard.
Top press and underpress for a professional finish and only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional fiish

How to make a Diamond Shaped Dart

This is also known as the body dart as sit runs from the bust, through the waist and down to the hip.

Begin as close to the edge of the fabric as possible, do not back stitch to avoid a ridged edge.
Stitch to a smooth curve through the waist point (the widest point of the dart).
At the end of the dart, run off the stitching to the edge of the garment.
Tie off ends in a knot for a smoother finish.
Cut away excess of the dart leaving a 1cm seam allowance. (Do not overlock or zig-zag – that would risk ugly impressions permanently on the right side after pressing.)
On the wrong side, press the dart flat to set the stitches, then press the seam open, if necessary clip the dart at the centre up to the stitch line to allow the seam to press flat. Do not make too many clips as this will weaken the seam. (You may stretch this area instead if the fabric will allow it – wool and natural fibres will be very accommadating.)
Press the uncut part of the dart flat by using the blade of a tiny scissor to open the seam, now press on the scissors. Take care not to burn yourself.
On the right side press the seam only with the toe of the iron and avoid overpressing the entire area around the dart. Use the toe of the iron to press the tip of the dart to avoid pleating
Do not overpress and cause an impression on the right side of the garment or ‘scorch’ or ‘kill’ the fibres.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional fiish

How to make a Wedge Dart

This is the most commonly used dart.

Begin sewing at the wider end and back stitch.
Stitch to a smooth point.
Tie off the end for a smooth flat finish. Back stitching will cause a ridged point.
On the wrong side, press the dart flat to set the stitches, then press to one side, pushing the point over with the toe of the iron. On the right side press the seam line only. Use the toe of the iron to press the tip of the dart to avoid pleating.
For heavy fabrics, lightweight and sheer fabrics , cut away excess from the dart leaving approximately a 1cm seam allowance.
For thick fabric, after stitching cut the dart seam open on the wider part and press open. Press the uncut part of the dart flat by insertng the blade of a tiny scissor to open the seam and press on the scissors. Take care not to burn yourself. (see diamond shape dart for demonstration)
Only press the seam line to avoid overpressing the area around the dart.
Do not overpress and cause an impression on the right side of the garment or ‘scorch’ or ‘kill’ the fibres.

Press all stages of construction for a smooth, professional finish.

Welcome to my web site . . .

. . . and a Happy New Year!

This site will specialise in professional garment construction skills.

I have been teaching for a number of years at the UAL, LCF and would like to share some of the sewing skills that my students have mastered. The video clips were intended to be used in conjunction with a tutor or technician so you will be advised when to press your seams.

The key to a professional finish is to develop good techniques and pay attention to the internal structuring of the garment. Under pressing and Top Pressing is an integral part of professional sewing and should never be neglected.

Later on, I would also like to share zip insertion techniques some pattern making techniques and dart manipulation skills.

How to make a Run & Fell Seam

This is a strong functional and decorative seam. It is used for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and seam allowances may vary. Use coloured thread for a decorative finish. Reverse the method of construction to place the smoother side next to the body.

PRESS ALL STAGES FOR A SMOOTH, PROFESSIONAL FINISH

Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, place right sides of fabrics together and stitch.
Press seam flat on the wrong side, then press open on the wrong side, then open on right side. Now press both layers of seam allowance to the desired side. Trim away 1cm from the under layer of seam allowance.
Fold a 5mm from the topside seam allowance and press.
Top stitch the folded edge in place. All raw edges will now be concealed.
Extra layers of topstitching may be added for a more decorative finish.
Top press to finish.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a French Seam

A French seam is both a functional and a decorative seam. It is used for delicate and sheer fabrics. The total amount of the seam allowance is divided for a narrow and a wider seam. Example the first seam of 6mm is folded over, then stitch another seam of 9mm = total seam of 1.5cm. Seam Allowances may vary.

PRESSING AT EACH STAGE WILL GIVE YOU A PROFESSIONAL FINISH

Place the wrong sides of the fabrics together. Stitch 6mm seam allowance.
Press the seam flat to set the stitches and smooth the seam. Press the seam open. Fold the seam over (right side of fabric together) and press together so that the stitch line is on the fold of the seam.
Re-open the pressed seam and trim approx 2mm from the raw edge. This will leave a smooth unfrayed edge.
Fold fabrics with right sides together. Stitch 9mm seam allowance.
From the wrong side, press flat to set the stitches and press away any seam pucker, then press seam allowance towards one side.
Top stitching may be added for a more decorative finish.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Control of fabric

If you are new to sewing this can be a little daunting but not for long!

It is very important to keep the raw edges together at all times whilst matching the stitch lines at the beginning and end of the seam.
Use pins at right angle to the raw edge of the fabric. It is easy to pull them out as you approach them. (Sewing over pins will blunt or break the needle.)
Keep the bulk of the garment/fabric to the left of the needle.
Use your left hand to smooth the fabric away from the needle.
Use your right hand to guide the fabric towards the needle. Take care not to allow the layers of material to wobble.
Never grab or pull the fabric towards you.
Use your foot to control the speed of the machine and keep your fingers a safe distance away from the needle.

If you are really nervous, sew without thread for a few times to get the feel of the machine.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

How to make a Welt Seam

This is a fairly strong functional seam and the top stitching (single or multiple rows) will add a decorative finish. Try experimenting with different types of threads for top stitching, e.g. satin thread. This seam is suitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics and seam allowances may vary.

PRESS ALL STAGES FOR A SMOOTH, PROFESSIONAL FINISH

Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, place right sides of fabrics together and stitch.
Press seam flat on the wrong side to set the stitches and smooth out any seam pucker; then press open; now press both layers of seam allowance to the desired side as for a closed seam. Trim away approx 7mm from the under layer of seam allowance and overlock or zig-zag the top layer of the seam allowance.
Press the overlocked edge flat.
From the Right side of the garment. top stitch to enclose the shorter seam allowance. The raw edge will now be concealed.
Extra layers of topstitching may be added for a more decorative finish.
Top press and underpress for a professional finish.

Only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Pages