Inserting a conventional zip with a concealed method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment.  A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is enclosed right over left.  The top of the zip teeth should rest approximately 2mm below the seam allowance to allow for waistbands, facings etc.

1. Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from below the zipper opening and backstitch. 
2. Overlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam.  Lightly press the right side from the seam opening to the top of the garment the width of the required seam allowance.
3. First, attach the left (underside) of the zip.  Create a 2/3mm pleat/inlay away from the seam along the edge of the opening.  Place the left side of the zip face down (right side to right side) unto the left side of the opening.  Align the 3mm stitch/guide line beneath the zipper teeth.  Use the appropriate zipper feet and stitch in place the full length of the zip.
4. The pleat will now extend the zip 2/3mm beyond the fitting line allowing the zip insertion to become concealed. The stitch line will not be visible from the right side of the garment.  Lightly press with the toe of the iron if necessary.
5. Align the right side of the opening over the right side of the zip so that it forms a continuous, straight seam. From the wrong side of the garment, pull the 3mm pleat across the seam and tack or pin before stitching in place with the appropriate zipper foot.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Inserting a conventional zip using the channel method

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment.  A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

Make the seam allowance below the zipper, overlock or zig-zag the edge of the seam allowances, press the seam allowance open and press or tack the zipper fitting line before you begin the zip insertion.

1. Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch the seam from end of the seam to below the zipper opening and backstitch.  (Optional, you may change the stitch length to the longest length, [baste] stitch to the top of the seam, snip the threads above the backstitch for ease of removal later.)
   Operlock or zig-zag the edges and press an open seam.  (Remove the optional  [basting] stitches.
2. Place right side of zip to wrong side of garment.  Align the top of the zip to the top of the opening and so that the teeth is just inside the edge of the opening, (approx 2 to 3mm).
3. Use the foot where the needle is closest to the zip.  Also, use the foot as a guide to stitch from the edge of the zip to stitch a straight line.  Close to the bottom of the zip, leave the needle in the garment, lift the foot and pull the tab & slider past the foot.  Continue to stitch to the bottom of the zip.
4. At the bottom of the zip length, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and pivot the garment at right angle.  Stitch to the seam line -- counting the number of stitches.  Count the same number of stitches across the seam line, pivot and stitch to the top of the zipper aligning the zip as the previous side.
5. Top press and under-press for a professional finish.

Only press the seam to avoid overpressing the entire garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion