Inserting an Open-Ended Zip

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for this zip insertion. The left and right conventional zipper feet are used.

The garment opening is edge to edge.

1. If appropriate, zig-zag or overlock the edge of the seam allowance before zip application. 
2. Fold back and lightly press the seam allowance on both sides of the opening. Turn up and lightly press the hem allowance, (in this instance 1cm.)  
3. Using the creases as a guide lines, fold back the hem so that right sides are together, stitch approx. 2mm above the guide/crease hem line 
4. Fold up the hem allowance and turn it through so that wrong side are back together.
5. Separate the zip, place the right side of the zip to the inside of the garment and align the bottom of the zip to a few millimetres from the bottom of the garment. (Any excess in the length of the zip can be cut away later and hidden behind facings or linings etc.) The teeth of the zipper is placed approx. 2mm away from the edge of the garment. Stitch close enough to the teeth to allow the glided to move freely. 
6. Align the opposite side of the zip to the garment. Close the zip to check correct alignment. Change to the opposite zipper foot, re-open the zip and stitch zipper in place. Use the same sequence and distances to maintain an even and symmetrical finish to the front of the garment.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Nick Sargent Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion

Concealed (invisible) Zip Insertion

Be sure to choose the correct weight of zip for the garment and use the correct zipper foot. A minimum of 2cm seam allowance is advisable for a zip insertion.

The zipper is inserted into the seam. The zip should be approximately 2cm longer that the opening allowance to allow for a clean turn through at the bottom.

1. Stitch the 2cm seam below the zip opening.  Press open and continue to lightly press a 2cm seam allowance on the zip opening.  This will be used as a guide line when inserting the zip. Overlock or zig-zag the edges.
2. Open the zip and align the tape of the zip to the top of the opening with the roll of the zip (next to the teeth) resting on the guide line, edge of zip is in the same direction as the edge of the garment.  The side of the zip being inserted is right side face down! (right side to right side).  This will cause the fabric to roll into a seam when the zip is folded back into the correct position after stitching.
3. Slip the curl of the zipper teeth in the groove of the appropriate side of the zipper foot.  (this will depend upon the style of zipper foot being used)  The stitching must be close enough to the teeth to allow the zipper to close.  Too far away and it will cause ‘grinning’  when the zipper is closed.
4. Stitch to the bottom of the opening as fas as possible and back stitch.  Close the zip to test that you have stitched the correct distance from the teeth. 
5. Align the opposite side of the zip to the opening with the roll resting on the guideline.  Re-open the zip.  Stitch to the bottom as far as is comfortably possible.  
6. Lift the puller into the gap between the zip teeth (your extra 2cm length).  Carefully pull up the puller through the gap between the garment and the zipper.
7. If the zip is inserted correctly, there will be one continuous seam with no puckers at the bottom of the zip.    A very sight pucker can be disguised with a hand stitch on the wrong side of the garment.
8. For long openings use a chalk or thread notches to keep the left and right side aligned.  For stretch fabrics and bias cuts garments use a narrow strip of iron-on interlining on the garment to reach say 3mm beyond the seam line.  This will stabalise the seam.

Credits
Producing/Demonstrating: Claudette Davis-Bonnick
Filming: Nick Sargent
Editing: Kenny MacLeod
Stills: Nick Sargent, Junior Bonnick
Thanks to: Oliver Furlong, Media Services, CLIP CETL "Making a Difference" funding at the London College of Fashion